Pork struggles to win over U.S. consumers despite protein boom

In a time of belt-tightening and America’s protein obsession, pork should be on a winning streak. It’s cheap compared with beef, which is climbing to record high prices, and it’s the type of clean protein consumers can’t seem to get enough of.

But pork consumption per capita in the US is forecast near the lowest level in about a decade, according to government data. That’s as the “other white meat” has long left US consumers confused over its preparation and nutritional profile.

“People don’t want to risk something not tasting great when it comes down to it,” said Reba Hatcher, chief commercial officer at meat subscription company ButcherBox. “Even if it’s cheaper when you go to the checkout, it’s not cheaper if you end up throwing it away or people end up hating it at the dinner table.”

In short, pork seems to have a messaging problem.

Pork is the cheapest ground meat — at $4.81 a pound, compared with the same amount of ground beef at $7.95 for the year ending mid-June, according to data from research firm NielsenIQ. Pork steak or pork chops cost about a third of a beef steak’s price. Yet the pork industry has struggled to get that point across to shoppers.

Cooking and culture

For a long time, the U.S. Department of Agriculture recommended whole cuts of pork be cooked to 160F (71C), leaving many home chefs with dry and tough meat.